Nasi Balap Puyung Inaq Esun

Nasi Balap Puyung is Lombok's most famous plate of fiery rice — rice topped with shredded spiced chicken, dried soybeans, crispy bits and a serious hit of chilli — and Inaq Esun in Puyung village is the original that made the dish famous.

It's not for the faint-hearted: regulars swear by the “super pedas” (extra spicy) version, though you can ask for it milder. Served fast and cheap, it's the kind of meal locals and in-the-know travellers will detour for. A short drive inland from the south coast, it's a true Lombok food institution for anyone who loves bold, spicy flavours.